Bonsai Tree Care

The whole purpose of the art of bonsai is to create a mature natural appearing tree in miniature. While there are several techniques used to help your tree remain small, pruning is the primary method to accomplish this. Proper pruning will enable your tree to thrive while keeping its miniature size as well as helping to create a pleasing shape. 
 
The frequency and amount of pruning that a tree needs depends on the age, size and type of tree that you are growing. With a deciduous seedling you should not prune it at all the first year and will only prune it a single time during it’s second year. With conifers you should not prune them at all until the third year. When a deciduous is 3 - 5 years old you will probably want to start thickening the trunk. To do this quickly you will want to cut it back when the new growth is at least 2/3rds of the planned height. You should not do this more than twice a year though. Depending on the size and shape of the crown you are trying to achieve you should leave from 1 to 5 leaves when you do this. 

If you are willing to wait longer for the trunk of your bonsai to thicken cut back the new growth only when 5 - 8 leaves have appeared. This will slow the thickening of the trunk but will give you delicate branches with few or no visible cutting scars. If your new shoots have produced 1 to 3 leaves then in the late summer the tips of the shoots should be removed. This is called “pinching” and is done either with fingertips or tweezers. This will give the shoots time to harden so that they can produce buds new buds for the winter. At this point if the nitrate levels in the soil are not too high the tree will strop growing and start preparing for winter dormancy.  
 

As your tree grows and matures you will probably need to remove a large branch at some time. To remove a large branch from a deciduous tree you should do it during the peak leaf growing season. This is any time from mid spring to early summer, during this time the pruning scar will heal the quickest. To remove a large branch you will need to use concave or “Wen” cutters. These cutters will create a concave wound that heals better; remember to always use a wound sealant to help your tree recover better.  
 
With a pine or spruce you can safely remove a large branch during the winter as well as during the main growing season. 

Proper pruning is critical for the proper development of your tree. It allows you to control the size and appearance to create exactly the visual image that you want. Like many things proper pruning takes time and practice. Be patient and if in doubt about removing something then leave it. You can always cut it off later.

     A great deal of the art of Bonsai is contained in shaping the tree into the desired shape.  If you follow the traditional Japanese style of Bonsai you will attempt to duplicate a style and appearance that can be found in nature, but you may exaggerate some of the elements.

     Before you can start shaping your tree you will need to decide exactly what you want the finished tree to look like.  You should be able to picture in your mind what you want your tree to look like.  Once you have decided on the style and shape there are several methods used to guide your bonsai into the shape you desire.

     Wiring and anchoring are two methods that are used quite frequently.

Wiring

     Wiring is just like it sounds, you use metal wire to hold a part of the tree into a position that you want until it will stay there naturally.  Wiring has the advantage of training the tree to the desired shape quicker than most other methods.

    

For most branches you will want to user aluminum wire because it is softer and easier to work with.  Also since it is softer you have to use a thicker wire to hold the branch in position.  The thicker wire is less likely to cut into the bark and leave a scar on your tree.  If you have heavier branches or if you are trying to train the trunk you will need to use copper or maybe even steel wire to hold the branch in place.

     To wire a branch you simply wrap the branch with wire and then gently bend it into the position that you want.  The wire will hold it this way until the branch will naturally hold this position.  Once you wire a branch you will want to monitor it closely to make sure that it does not thicken to the point that the wire is cutting into the bark.  You need to be especially vigilant with deciduous trees because they tend to thicken in spurts.

     You should always start your wire on thicker branches and work your way up to the thinner ones. 

 

If you use one wire to wire two branches you will have a more stable set up.

If you notice your wire getting tight remove it to avoid scarring.  If the branch still will not stay in position you can re-wrap it to accommodate its new size.

 

Anchoring

     Frequently a branch that is several years old will be too heavy to respond well to wiring.  In this case you will find that anchoring will probably work better.  Anchoring works by pulling the branch into the position you want and holding it there.

     To anchor a branch you loop a string or wire over the branch.  Any place that the string or wire touches the tree should be covered in a soft rubber tubing to protect the bark.  The other end is secured to the container or another branch to hold the limb in the position you want.  If you secure it to another branch be sure to use the protective tubing on this end as well, you also need to be sure that you do not pull the anchor limb out of it’s position.

Bonsai trees have long been a favorite hobby of many due to their interesting shapes and decorative appeal. Bonsai trees can be grown indoors to decorate a living room, den or office or left in the garden for an exotic look. This is a unique hobby that lets one combine their love for growing plants with their creative skill in shaping the bonsai.

The maple is one of the most popular trees used for bonsai. Of the maple family, two are particularly popular: The Trident Maple and the Japanese Maple. This article will provide you with a brief introduction to these two bonsai maple trees.

The Trident Maple (Acer buergerianum) is an oriental deciduous tree. It is very tolerant to pollution, which is why it can be grown in cities and towns. The trident maple is quite hardy as far as bonsai trees go, but it will still need special care, particularly with regards to protecting it from frost. The trident maple’s roots have high moisture content; and during winter this can become a disadvantage. In order to protect this maple from frost, you can try keeping it in a greenhouse or covering it with straw during winter. The trident maple should be placed in a sunny spot that has shade in the afternoons.

The Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) is also known as the Japanese Mountain Maple. There are many varieties of Japanese maple to choose from; it is a very popular bonsai maple tree. Just to give you an idea, there is the Nishiki Issai, Ara Kawa, Nishiki Sho, Nishiki Gawa – these are varieties with rough barks that age quickly. There are also varieties with unusual barks – this includes the Sanku and the Aoyji. The Kiyo-hime Tama-hime are examples of the dwarf varieties. These grow more like bushes rather than trees.

The Japanese maple has a diverse variety of hybrids, by some counts more than three hundred. The leaves of Japanese maples range from light green to deep burgundy. Like the trident maple, Japanese maples are quite durable trees. Air pollutants and insects are usually not a problem for them. The Japanese maple grows best in moist, fertile soil, and do not perform as well in places when exposed to too much sun.

Caring for your bonsai tree is not that difficult. It needs the appropriate amount of sun and water. The maples prefer a bit of shade with not excessive direct sunlight. If you have yours in a pot, you can place it where you want but be sure to move it out of the direct sun during the hottest part of the day. You should not let your bonsai dry out but also, do not drown it in too much water. Careful pruning and shaping of the bonsai will give you a lovely tree that will last for years.

Bonsai maple trees are quite beautiful and are ideal for bonsai beginners. Their innate durability makes them easy to take care of. And let’s not forget that they are also some of the most incredible-looking bonsai around!

Lee Dobbins writes for http://www.bonsai.garden-corner.com where you can learn more about bonsai trees. Visit http://bonsai.garden-corner.com/Starting_Your_Bonsai_Hobby.html to learn more about starting your bonsai hobby.

Copyright © 2006 Francesca Black

Bonsai are shaped by trimming the branches or by wiring them into new positions.

You are dealing with living things, and you must be respectful of that. You will kill trees. This is a sad fact of the activity, especially as you start out. Commit yourself to understanding why every tree dies and what can be done to prevent it. Learn from your mistakes and do your best to prevent them in the future.

Every tree is different. Learn to care for a few different types of plants, and grow your collection from there.

How to Begin the Art of Bonsai

Remove the tree from the plastic pot by turning the pot upside down, tapping the bottom, and letting the tree slide out into your hand. The soil should not be too dry, so that the root ball remains intact. Gently scrape away the topsoil around the base of the tree, to expose the lower trunk (about one quarter to one half inch). Try not to break too many surface roots. First thing is to look at the roots of the tree and check to see if it gives the appearance of a strong foundation.

Cut off the bottom third of the soil and roots, and flatten out the remaining root mass. Prepare the bonsai pot by placing a piece of screen over each drainage hole, and pour a layer of potting soil into the bottom of the pot. Place the tree in the pot, pour in the remaining soil, and pack it firmly. Finally, submerge the bonsai, pot and all, in water, up to the base of the trunk, and let it sit in the water for a few minutes.

Interesting Bonsai Visual Effects

In bonsai, the rule of thirds states that the first (lowest and biggest) branch should be at about one third of the total height of the tree. It is the trunk that gives the tree its visual strength, and every effort should be made to have at least the bottom two-thirds of the height clear of branches at the front of the tree.

Next is checking the trunk. The shape of the trunk will basically determine the style you choose. In almost all cases, however, a thick base, which tapers gradually and gently to a thin apex, will make for a nice tree. Which style you prefer will depend on the movement of the trunk.

Look at the branching pattern. The lower branches should be thick while the upper ones should be thin. The branches should be laid out like the spokes of a wheel with some going to the back. This will give the tree depth when you look at it. No two branches should leave the trunk at the same level.

The handlebar effect is unnatural looking and, if left, will cause the trunk to swell at their level causing an ugly bulge in the trunk line. If your tree has such a fault you should, if a deciduous tree, remove one of the branches entirely. Try to avoid having branches spaced evenly down the trunk. Reduce the distance between the branches as you go toward the top of the tree.

Finally examine the plant to see if it is healthy. Be sure not to wire so tightly that you cut into the bark, or so loosely that you do not have support. Minor wire marks can sometimes add interest and show that the tree has been trained, giving branches character after several years. However, major wire marks are very ugly. To hide any marks that look unnatural you can strategically place foliage at intervals in front of the trunk, so that the trunk line is not completely visible.

It may be ten years (or longer) before your plant will actually be a bonsai. Don’t be discouraged by this, but think of it as part of the experience. Perhaps most importantly, understand that when you put a tree in a pot you are committing yourself to the care of that tree. You cannot simply ignore it or it will die. Bonsai is a responsibility as well as a hobby. If you practice it with care and patience, the rewards are tremendous.

 

    

Many people do not realize that most bonsai plants are not indoor plants. To properly cultivate and maintain most bonsai trees they should be kept outside at almost all times. There are a group of what are called indoor bonsai trees.  These are non-traditional tree species from warmer climates such as palm trees. Because they are from a warmer climate they do need to be kept indoors in most locales.  However if you are keeping traditional native bonsai trees in the US then chances are that tree needs to be outside.  Most people do not realize how important it is for these trees to be wintered outside in a natural climate.  The period of winter dormancy is critical for the proper growth of the plant.

          

  To give your plant this necessary period you will need to winter it someplace outside.  The preferred method is to plant the tree in your yard for the winter.  In most native trees the roots are the part of the tree that is most sensitive to the cold.  Most plants will start experiencing root damage at about 23 degrees Fahrenheit. To help avoid root damage you will need to take the plant out of its container and then bury it in the yard or garden.  To help get below the frost line you should bury the plant deep enough so that the bottom branches are just barely exposed.  You should bury it in a shaded area.  During the winter days the sun can cause the plant to lose it’s water and the frozen roots will not be able to replenish it.
            If you do not have a yard to plant the tree in for the winter you can use a large container. A large container about the size of a vegetable crate should be sufficient.  You bury the plant in the container just like you would in the yard. And set it somewhere outside where will be exposed to natural elements.  If you use a container it is very important that you monitor the soil moisture closely and do not allow it to dry out.
           

 It is also possible to winter it in an un-heated garage or actic that has windows.  Be sure to place the plant where it is exposed to the light from the windows.  You will still need to water the plant almost daily if you choose this method.  If  you plant is a conifer you will want to rotate it about once a week to so that all sides of the plant will be exposed to the sunlight.
            You can prepare your tree for it’s winter storage as soon as the last leaves have fallen off.  At that time the plant is dormant and ready to be moved.  In the spring you can remove it from the yard and place it back in a container as soon as you see the first buds appear.  If you allow your plant to winter indoors they will bud early.  When they bud early the days will still be too short for proper growth and the leaves will have long gaps between them.

 

To practice the art of Bonsai you must have the proper tools.  I am going to list and describe the more common bonsai tools.  When you first start out you will not need all of the tools listed and depending on your level of involvement in Bonsai you may never need them all.

Scissors

     Scissors are a staple tool for all bonsai enthusiast, they come in various shapes and sizes to handle various jobs.
 Leaf Cutting Scissors:  Just as the name implies these are used mainly for light work like pruning back or removing leaves.
 Shoot Trimming Scissors:  These are a heavier set of scissors designed for cut small to mid-sized shoots or branches.
 Heavy Duty Shoot Scissors:  These are an even heavier pair of scissors designed for all the shoots that are too large for the regular shoot scissors but too small for a pruner.

 

Pruning & Cutting Tools
 Pruning and cutting tools are used for any cutting that is too heavy to be performed with scisssors.

 Concave Branch Cutter: These are heavy duty cutters designed similar to bolt cutters.  They are used to cleanly and smoothly remove fair sized branches.
 Spherical Knob CUtters: Are similar to the branch cutter except the cutting piece is spherical.  These are designed to cut through heavy knobs or knots.
 Folding Pruning saw:  This is a small rough cut saw that with a blade that folds back into the handle similar to a pocket knife.  They are used for cutting very heavy branches or when you need to cut down the trunk of your bonsai tree.
 Shears: You use shears for many different medium to light cutting jobs.
 Woodworking Gouges:  Gouges are used for multiple artistic purposes in bonsai.  They are frequently used to remove bark or to score the trunk to simulate natural damage to a tree.
 

Wire Tools:
 Wires are frequently used to train the bonsai plant into the proper artistic form.  There are a multitude of tools used to work with wire most of these are available at any hardware or automotive store.

 Common Wire Snips:  These are common wire snips that are frequently used by electricians, they should be heavy enough to handle any of the aluminumum wire used for bonsai.
 Heavy Duty Wire Snips :  These are just a heavier version of the snips listed above that might be needed if you are working with some heavier than average wire.
 Pliers:  Common house hold pliers are used for bending and twisting the wire into the proper shape and position.
 Needle Nose Pliers: These are pliers that come to a fine point and are useful for working in tight confines around the trunk and branches.

Potting Tools
 The pot that you keep your bonsai in is very important for both it’s health and proper development.  Bonsai need frequent re-potting and root modification.  These are the tools most useful for those tasks.

 Root Hooks:  These are used to seperate the root ball into a more managable form for trimming and pruning. They are a heavy wire bent at one end and usually sharpened to a fair point.
 Potting Trowel:  This is just a small garden trowl that will be used to dig and manipulate the soil in your bonsai pot.
 Soil Scoops:  Are small metal or plastic cups with a handle and the open end is cut into a scoop shape.  They are used to remove or add soil to the pot.

 Brush:  Soft brushes are used to lightly clean and maintain the trunk, branches and leaves of the bonsai.
 

Miscelenous Tools
 Some general tools that do not fit in any of the other categories.

 Chop Sticks: These are perfect for tamping and working the soil down around the roots of the tree.
 Gardeners Knife: This is handy for many of the heavy non-delicate cutting you have to do.
 Rake: A small rake just like a garden or yard rake except in miniature is used to clean and maintain the surface of the soil.
 Tweezers:  Tweezers are often necessary to work around the limited space on many bonsai.

 

Bonsai trees need care similar to any other plant below is a basic outline of care for a Bonsai tree.
Watering

    More trees die from a lack of water or low humidity than anything.  The soil used to raise bonsai is normally a porous soil that drains well.  The type of soil as well as the shape and design of the pot will affect quickly the soil dries out.  Different tree types will require different amounts of water to thrive.  You will need to research your specific species of tree for a general guideline and then closely monitor how the tree grows to determine if it is being watered correctly.  If you take your pot and place it on top of some rocks in a tray full of water this will help increase the humidity around the tree and will aid in it’s growth.  Along with normal watering about once a week  you should fully submerge the bonsai tree pot until no more bubbles escape from the pot or the soil.

Soil

 Proper soil choice is critical optimum bonsai tree care, the soil affects the roots, feeding, and watering of your tree. The size and shape of the pot affects both the appearance as well as growth and health of the bonsai. As a rule of thumb be about 3/4 as wide as the tree is tall and about half as deep. The height of the pot should be roughly the same as the diameter of the trunk. Bonsai soils are designed to optimize drainage.  They are usually a mix of coarse sand or gravel with peat or bark added for an organic element.  Different trees will need various ratios of grit to humus.  Usually dedidious trees need about 70% humus and 30% grit while evergreens will thrive better with 30% humus and 70% grit.

  

Pruning

     Pruning serves dual purpos in the care of bonsai trees. Pruning removes branches that clutter and hamper the aestetic design of the tree. Pruning is also used to direct and control the growth of the tree.  You will also have fine pruning sucha s pinching and leaf pruning to help encourage branching.  Always remember when you are pruning your bonsai that you can always remove something later but it is very difficult to put it back after you have cut it. So if in doubt leave it for now.  You should start with a light pruning then give it two or three weeks and wait for the bounce back to decide if you need to do more.  pay special attention to developing the trunk, any where on the trunk that a branch is allowed to grow will thicken.  When pruning you need to keep the top and bottom (roots) balanced for optimum results.

 

Fertilizing
   Your average bonsai will need fertilized once or twice a month.  You should only ferterlize during the normal growing season.  Us a water soluble ferterlizer and apply it when the soil is already wet.

 

Re-potting

    Re-potting is a critical element of bonsai care.  It is crucial to help keep the roots and top of the tree in balance.  Bonsai trees should be re-potted every two or three  years.  When you re-pot the bonsai you need to trim the roots.  You will normally want to remove about 1/3 of the root ball. You need to trim all away around the ball to keep it in balance.
Lighting
     Many people do not realize that most bonsai trees should be kept outdoors year round.  The few exceptions are the non-traditional tropical trees which need kept inside if you are not in a tropical environment.  Outdoor bonsai should be positioned where they will get six or more hours of light each day. Indoor bonsai should receive two to four hours of natural or artificial sunlight.  For inside bonsai full spectrum flourescents can provide the necessary light levels but the treen needs to be placed close to the light.